When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.
The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners utterly surprised.
“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.
However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.
The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.
Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.
A tech strategist and writer passionate about digital transformation and emerging technologies.